The New York Fashion Week has injected a large dose of vitamins, dynamism and optimism in our 2012 summer
Technical fabrics, geometric athletic details and graphic prints as well as the color orange are taking the lead in New York for the next summer. If I were to name one designer that summarize the Strongest Trends from New York, it would be Narciso Rodriguez with no hesitation. He takes his collection from his usual ultra feminine Minimalistic shapes to a more androgynous look composed of asymmetry of parallelograms of sheer and opaque fabrics, solids and delicate prints. The Geometry of the cut is reinforced by the use of Orange, aquamarine, light grey, underlined with black and white for a modern and dynamic silhouette that would have been perfect with a natural pony tail.
The Minimalistic Look
New York is the city where the minimalistic trend is king. The cut is sharp, simple, architecturally graphic and emphasized by fluid layers of different lengths. Spring Summer 2012 is definitely the time for fresh chic sportswear lines. 3.1 Philip Lim his my preference with an androgyn line in plain colors with sorbet pastel palette, from peach to lavender with beige and off-whites, in soft, fluid and airy slited fabrics. In the minimalistic approach, Chado Ralph Rucci‘s has taken a much more feminine direction with great success. He plays with transparent plastic details that appear to be floating unencumbered by physical constraints.
The Athletic and Sporty Look
A need for speed and confort is heavily present during this New York Fashion week. Alexander Wang is now becoming a reference in this approach for an Athletic Urban Chic Look. Next summer, Alexander his taking his inspiration from Motocross and BMX for a tough-girl holding her helmet for a bike ride. My special mention goes to another Wang… Yes Vera Wang, who pleasantly surprised me with the debut of her show presenting a fitted silhouette with detachable elements in white cotton piqué with mini skirts, contrasting with some long fluid parachute silk skirts with embroidered eyelets and zippers. The new line proposed by Vera Wang is a successful mix of modernity and romanticism confirming that she is taking on a new direction from bridal and red carpet business that has been her trademark for years.
Allergic to oranges? Then you might want to skip the next summer season, as it is the color that is proposed by almost all of the fashion designers. Is Orange a remedy for depression and the economic and financial crisis? Not really, but definitely a psychological influence to a positive state of mind. Orange is a great color to wear when you have a tan. Orange has been dominant in solid uniform color from head to toe by Derek Lam, Alexandre Herchovitch and Carlo Miele. Orange has played an important role in accentuating the silhouette in a geometric version at BCBG Max Azria and abstract palm trees at Jill Stuart.
Prints and Flower Power
Audacity is just a frame of mind. So after those flashy orange garments, get even more daring and open yourself up for huge prints. Obviously expected at Custo Barcelona as they are part of their DNA, the prints clearly evoke Sonia Delaunay‘s unusual geometry and cubism by Milly. In the Print Family, the focus is on the flowers with Pradal Gurung who collaborated with a printmaker in London to create a floral motif inspired by Araki‘s Sensual Flowers series, Jason Wu and even in the sporty line of Alexander Wang.
Square, diamond shapes, lines, diagonales, checkerboard… All of the panoply for a good geometry lesson is present for the next spring-summer season. Proenza Schouler is getting a forties nostalgic inspiration with sophisticated graphic, geometric patterns. Carolina Herrera riffles on the Art Deco influence that we will see a lot during Milan Fashion Week. Donna Karan has found a very chic and modern way to explore geometry in her tribal collection in a “Africa Queen” state of mind.
Nudes in a Night and Day Way
Eyes sore from too many motifs and colors? You can take a rest with the nude, flesh, beige and off-whites proposed by Calvin Klein for his entire Collection from day wear to cocktail gowns. The palette of brands in these nuances is quite large from Reed Krakoff, to Gilles Mendel for the brand J. Mendel. The beige tonality screams clean and sharp silhouettes and fairy like vaporous red carpet gowns from Marchesa, Band of Outsiders and Oscar de la Renta.
High Tech and Plastic Wrapping
No review is complete without the mention the Marc Jacobs Collection which season after season reinforces his influence, as being considered a must in all of the major fashion editorials. After a polka dots tidal wave last season, Marc Jacobs is wrapping his creations in the extensive use of clear plastic fringes, colored sequins and paillettes to transparent plastic trash bags worn as an overdress. Chado Ralph Rucci plays with plastic details and panels while Diesel Black Goldexplores new textures with an aluminium foil fused with leather aspect.
The influence of the Twenties Art Deco Retro Trend with fluid and straight cuts for Charleston dresses with Ralph Lauren right from “The Great Gatbsy” influences or with Marchesa. There is also the Forties influences by Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler, Carolina Herrera that stand out as major trends from the New York Fashion Week Shows. Madame Grès‘s retrospective exhibited in Paris on her draping work have had an obvious influence on New York Fashion Week with Donna Karan‘s drapings coming right from a “Mogambo” Africa treck, with Marc Jacobs‘ wrap around collection and even contemporary interpreted with poncho-scarf dresses by BCBG Max Azria, Carlo Miele and Michael Kors taking us for a urban Safari.
Get ready for more with London, Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks.Photo credits © Yannis Vlamos, Alessandro Garofalo, Alessandro Viero